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How to Make Copper Countertops
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When designing your countertop, you'll want to know the size and layout of each sheet of copper, each sheet of substrate, whether the substrate is going te be plywood or MDF, and how it all gets mated together. Consider where/how you will be constructing the countertop, and the logistics of putting it in place when you're done, this affects whether you can build the counter in 'modules', or one large piece. Here are the pros/cons of each method. Modular Countertop: Pros: - Easy to move from garage to kitchen - Much cleaner house (copper bits and dust won't get everywhere) - Easier to construct - Hazardous MDF dust stays in the garage or outside. Cons: - Seams between modules could be a weak point. I have not tested this, and am unsure if this is a real problem.
One-piece: Pros: - Stronger joints, no need to worry about seams splitting when you place weight on it Cons: - Very difficult and nerve racking to move, even when built close to its final place. - Harder to construct. - Hazardous MDF dust, copper bits get all over the kitchen/dining room, hard to get out of carpet. As you can see, the pros/cons are exactly opposite of each other. I found it very important that the seams are very strong, so I opted for the "one-piece" counter. But, if you design the counter carefully, and have good cabinets, and a good layout, you could add 2x4's (or whatever) to reinforce the seams. So, I designed my countertops like so... Here's the Bottom MDF Layer: And the Top MDF Layer: The copper layer just looks like the bottom MDF layer, but with an extra few inches that overhang the outside edges of the countertop. The outside edges will simply be routed off after countsruction. Notice that the intersections do not match up between layers, this will resist cracking along the seams when force is applied. For materials, I used:
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Cut/fit bottom layer to wall: Once your cabinets are installed, you may begin constructing the bottom substrate layer. Create rough cuts of the MDF, and place against the wall and draw the profile of the wall onto the MDF using a compass, this will give you an excellent fit with minimal gaps. Make final cuts. Apply polyurethane to underside: Once all layers are properly sized and cut, apply a few coats of polyurethane water barrier underneath the substrate. Not only will it act as a water barrier, it will prevent outgassing of Fermaldehyde. Allow to cure for a day. Dry fit:
Ensure that, the bottom layer substrate fits together nicely, provides enough overhang around the cabinets, is level, no huge gaps along wallls. When you're satisfied, add biscuit joints along the seam (but don't glue them yet). This will help you line it up again when you add the 2nd layer of substrate.
Suspend from cabinets Now suspend the bottom layer above the cabinets by using 4x4's, or whatever you have available. The goal is to give yourself clearance to place clamps all over the place, and the run ratchet straps along from edge-to-edge. So move it up, and away from the wall. Dry-fit 2nd substrate layer Rough cut the 2nd substrate layer to overlap the edges of the bottom layer. Add 2nd substrate layer Now, glue those biscuit joints, line up the bottom layer, get it nice and level. Clean the surface of the MDF sheets, so there's no dirt/dust. Then, add a bunch of Titebond III to the surface and spread it using an adhesive "paint" roller (availale at any hardware store). Since the MDF sucks up most of the glue, allow it to sit for 5-10 minutes and add a second layer of glue. Finally, clamp the rough-cut sheets from above, and let it cure. Prepare for tons of dust Meanwhile, tape up plastic sheets to keep dust from getting everywhere else in the house. It is ridiculous. Route 2nd layer Once cured, simply route around the edge so it's flush with the 1st layer. Use a good flush cut bit that won't break easy.
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Dry-fit copper edging Use a simple miter saw to cut the copper edgeing. You can leave some overhang where desired if you want to use the router to make corners flush.
Clean copper Use acetone and steel wool to clean off the adhering side of the copper. Glue/Clamp edging This is nerve-wracking, because the first couple times my edges fell off after gluing. You should practice using some scrap 1st. Add the TC-20 adhesive, let the MDF absorb it for a while, then add another layer just before clamping. If your clamps aren't big enough to clamp the edges, then I recommend ratchet straps. Just make sure glue doesn't get on the straps (I don't remember being too careful though). Allow it to cure, don't pay attention to the bonding time on the bottle. Let it sit overnight. Once cured, trim any overhanging edging use the router again. Surprisingly, a simple flush bit works great on copper. Move off platform Dryfit the countertop one more time, so you can mark out where the sink will be. So, have your friends come over to help lift it, remove the 2x4s or whatever, and put it into place. The counter is easy to slide around again when you need the room. Cut-out hole for the sink Using good measuring skills, mark where your sink needs to be, pentuple check it, and cut it out using a jig-saw. I'm doing this after gluing the substrates together, so the sink edge will have a stronger bond. And, so I don't crush the substrate when clamping the edging around the sink. I recommend adding some caulk to the inside edge of the sink hole now... I forgot to do this.
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Dry-fit copper sheet Hopefully you ordered enough copper overhang to account for wall unevenness. I barely did. Dry fit the copper onto the countertop, and if you need to make any more cuts, I suggest the following method: - Using a factory-cut edge, score where you need the cut onto the copper. - Use a factory-cut board to use as a guide for a flush bit on your router. - Clamp the factory-cut board to the copper. - Route it. This gave us an extremely straight cut, better than trying to score it with a razor (which doesn't work anyway, don't bother). Clean Clean the copper like before, using acetone and steel wool. Glue Use the same method as before, apply 1st layer of adhesive, wait, add second layer, then add the copper. We did this one sheet at a time (clean/glue/clamp) Clamp Simply clamp and wait. Note: It is difficult, but not impossible, to move the copper once placed on the adhesive. Let it cure.
Route the edges Do it like before... I suggest having someone hold a plastic "cloak" behind you to keep copper from flying everywhere (it will anyway). Route the outside edge, and the sinkhole.
Be careful with the router bit depth, if it's too deep, it could cut into the edging if it's not quite level, see below. I had to adjust the brightness/contrast to make it show up better.
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After it's all cured place it into it's final position. Screw the counter to the cabinets, and add reinforcement where necessary. The copper epoxy putty (that I originally listed in the list of materials) did not work well at all. It crumbles way too easily, and doesn't look good either. If you think it's needed, I would apply silicone sealant to seems (I did this only for the seam nearest the sink). | ||
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